Published on 20 July 2025 | 8 mins read
Beyond the ancient temples and sacred ghats, Varanasi, the spiritual heart of India is also known for its vibrant and diverse culinary scene. From chatpata (mixed flavour bomb) street-side chaats to soothing, melt-in-your-mouth Malaiyo, and of course the quintessential Banarasi paan, the city offers an unparalleled experience for your taste buds. The tantalizing smell of food cooked over coal and being served in natural vessels like patta katori or kulhad for chai (tea), it adds a unique depth, making this city a true paradise for food lovers. Dive in to unveil its must-try food joints and iconic eateries and their signature dishes.
Chaat Delights: A Symphony of Flavors
No visit to Varanasi is complete without indulging in its famous chaat. The city's chaat culture is legendary, and two places stand out:
Kashi Chat Bhandar: This iconic spot is a pilgrimage for chaat enthusiasts. Yes, they're the ones who made it to the ‘Ambani wedding,’ representing Varanasi's unique flavors at the globally renowned event.
Their unique Palak Patta Chaat offers a delightful crunch of batter-fried fresh spinach, mixed with dahi (yogurt), meetha (sweet) and theekha (spicy) chutneys, and garnished with sev and coriander. The Tamatar Chaat, while it might sound unusual, is a truly unique Varanasi specialty – tangy, subtly sweet, and bursting with flavors. Both are priced at ₹60. Finish your chaat experience here with a refreshing Falooda.
Deena Chaat Centre: Another local favourite, it is renowned for its authentic Banarasi snacks.
Their Chura Matar is a savory sensation, a winter special dish made with fresh green peas and poha (flattened rice). The Aloo Tikki Chaat is also a classic done to perfection. For a sweet and rich treat, try the seasonal Malaiyo (₹70), a creamy, light, frothy dessert that simply melts in your mouth.
Traditional Breakfasts and Sweet Treats
Start your day the Banarasi way with these traditional breakfast spots:
The Ram Bhandar: This iconic eatery is a must-visit! It's a 138-year-old establishment, serving delicacies since 1887. Tucked deep inside the tiny lanes of the bazaar behind the Manikarnika Ghat, it's quintessential spot for a traditional Banarasi breakfast.
Their Badi Kachori Sabzi is a hearty and flavorful start to the day. Pair it with their crisp and juicy Jalebi. Do note that these breakfast items are typically available only until 11 AM, and Sunday availability can be doubtful. A plate of kachori sabzi costs around ₹70.
We also tried their snack items: Samosa with chutney, Aloo Tikki Chole, and Gulab Jamun (available only between 2:30 PM and 6:00 PM). The samosa was perfectly khasta (crispy and flaky) and a bit smaller than regular ones. Its potato filling was well-seasoned with a hint of hing (asafoetida) and a tang of amchur. The chole was rich, aromatic, and tender, and the gulab jamun was soft and delicious, though a tad bit oversweet.
Chachi Ki Dukan: This humble shop is a hidden gem for traditional breakfast. While its banner might be visible from afar, be careful not to be misled by other nearby stalls (serving similar items); the shops are so small that it's often hard to tell where one establishment ends and another begins.
Their Kachori Sabzi is highly recommended, but it's the Jalebi that truly steals the show. Crispy and airy with a delightful texture, it's perfectly sweet without being cloying, bursting your mouth with juices with every bite.
Chai Nashta and other Refreshing Drinks
As you wander through the vein-like lanes of Varanasi, keep an eye out for these street food essentials and their recommended stores:
Lakshmi Chai Wale: Nestled in the lanes behind the Kashi Vishwanath temple, this 80-year-old tea shop lingers the entire galli (lane) with the enticing aroma of its coal-cooked items. Here, they famously insist you eat first and pay later. Even with a very limited menu, this spot is not just a local favorite but also one of the most popular chai stalls in India. Arrive late, and you might just miss out on a few items!
Malai and Butter Toast with Chai: Here, bread slices are grilled directly over coal, achieving a perfect crunch, color, and aroma. For Malai Toast, a generous layer of clotted cream (malai) is spread on the hot toast and is sprinkled with sugar; it's recommended to enjoy this immediately before the malai makes it soggy. For Butter Toast, a generous amount of butter (white or salted) is applied, melting deliciously into the hot bread. These simple yet satisfying toasts are unique taste bombs and perfect companions for your chai. The chai itself, also cooked over coal, is served either in a traditional kulhad (earthen cup) or a glass, depending on your preference.
Lassi and Thandai: They are integral to Varanasi's food fabric. In the summer, when temperatures become unbearable, these drinks offer the much-needed respite. Here locals commonly consume bhaang, not only for its perceived cooling properties but also due to its close association with Mahadev. While these stalls are very common throughout the city, a few reputed ones include Shiv Prasad Lassi Bhandar, offering traditional, refreshing thick lassi, and Blue Lassi, known for its wide variety of creamy and flavorful lassis.
Malaiyo: It is an incredibly unique sweet delicacy from Varanasi made during the cold winter months. Often described as a "cloud of milk" because of its unbelievably light, airy, and frothy texture.
It is made by churning fat-rich, dew-kissed milk (exposed to the cold night air) with sugar and saffron strands for several hours, resulting in a dessert far lighter than conventional whipped cream. Due to its delicate, airy structure, Malaiyo is extremely sensitive to warmth, and quickly starts to collapse and lose its form as the temperature rises. It is best enjoyed in the chilly mornings.
Look out for Sreeji – Sweets & Milk, just a 5-minute walk from The Ram Bhandar, serving one of the city's best Malaiyo. Do remember it's usually available only until 3 PM.
Banarasi paan: It is a cultural icon and a beloved tradition in Varanasi. Each bite is an experience in itself. It has recently been GI tagged, and what truly sets it apart is a traditional process called "pakana" (ripening). Here, the leaves are smoked in a dark room with special coal and wood, making them incredibly soft, tender, and almost melt-in-your-mouth.
Each bite is a multi-sensory delight. The leaf dissolves almost instantly in the mouth, releasing a complex burst of flavors – sweet, fragrant, slightly tangy, and deeply aromatic. It leaves a long-lasting, refreshing aftertaste. You can find a paan wala at every nook and corner of Banaras, each delivering a consistently delightful taste.
Other Must-Try Street Foods: Among other must-try street-side snacks from local stalls are hing kachori, samosa chutney, and various kachori chaats.
Authentic Banarasi Thali Experience
For a complete and wholesome meal in Varanasi, a bati chokha thali is a must-try:
Banarasi Bati Chokha: This specialized restaurant offers the quintessential Banarasi dish, Bati Chokha. Their thali, priced at ₹270, provides a serving of baked wheat balls (bati) with a filling of your choice, served with a flavorful mashed vegetable mix (chokha), along with daal, chawal, a sweet dish, and other accompaniments.
Beyond the Traditional: A Touch of Global Flavors
Looking for something different apart from chaats and traditional foods? This café has got you covered:
Pizzeria Vaatika Cafe: This café, just a 2-minute walk away from Assi ghat, serves delicious wood-fired pizzas with a local twist. Their Margherita Pizza (₹350) is a safe bet, and their Apple Pie (₹150) is a comforting dessert. Don't forget to try their Cheese Garlic Bread (approx. ₹200) and a refreshing Ginger Lemon Honey Drink (₹100).
Varanasi's food scene is an adventure in itself. Be prepared to step out of your comfort zone, embrace the local flavors, and savor every bite of this ancient city's culinary treasures.
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