Sarnath

Where the Wheel of Dharma was Turned

Published on 20 July 2025 | 12 mins read

Where is Sarnath? Its History and Significance

Travelling just 8 kilometers from Varanasi, will help you unfold a different side of spirituality. The temple bells get replaced with bonshōs (Buddhist temple bells) and damrus (power drums) with prayer wheels. Temples take shapes of monasteries and purohits (priest) get replaced by monks. This is Sarnath, a place that holds immense significance in the history of Buddhism.

It's the place where Buddha delivered his first sermon after attaining enlightenment, an event known as the ‘Turning of the Wheel of Dharma’. This sermon, given to his first five disciples, laid the foundation for the Buddhist Sangha, thus etching the name of Sarnath in the history of Buddhism making it a perennial destination for pilgrims worldwide.

Sarnath, derived from ‘Saranganath’, meaning ‘Lord of the Deer’ is connected to a Jataka tale. Where the Buddha, in a previous life as a stag, offered himself to be sacrificed to save the other animals. The now deer park of Sarnath is where this supposed act occurred, and later, Buddha (in another birth) delivered his first sermon. The town is also sometimes referred to as Mrigadava, translating to ‘Deer Park.’

The Buddha Statue and Thai Temple at Sarnath

Being quite accessible from Varanasi, we booked an Uber and arrived at the Buddha statue area of Sarnath. The fog hung heavy over the tall Buddha statue, a mystical veil casting a gloomy atmosphere. It was a chilly winter morning, and despite the cold, a palpable energy thrummed through the air—a mix of serenity with a hint of touristy chaos. As we walked past many tourists, almost everyone with phones held high, snapping pictures, we were approached by a few guides offering their services. Their rates started at 200 and ultimately dropped to 50. (Chuckles) Typical Indian pricing for tourists.

The entrance featured elements inspired by the Ashoka dynasty (one of the crucial powers to make Buddhism prominent in India), including a replica of the Ashoka pillar and the Ashoka chakra. The 80-feet-tall, standing Buddha statue (inspired by the Buddhas of Bamiyan), located on the grounds of the Thai temple, is a sight to behold. Him in the Abhaya mudra (the blessing Buddha posture, representing protection, reassurance, and freedom from fear). As we reached closer to the statue, it felt surreal, as if he were bestowing blessings on us in person. However, just as we closed our eyes to embrace the energy, we were distracted by other tourists who wanted to click pictures with the statue. Disheartened by the interruption, we headed towards the monastery nearby.

80 feet tall Buddha’s statue

As we stepped in, the beautiful golden Buddha bathed in soft light, created an almost instant sense of meditative calm. The elegant dragons adorning the space infused the ambiance with a distinct Thai aesthetic. But this tranquillity proved ephemeral. My prayer was soon interrupted by someone asking me to step aside for a photo, and then by another who simply wanted ‘me’ to be their photographer. It was disheartening to see photography being prioritized over devotion, transforming a sacred pilgrimage site into a mere tourist attraction.

Buddha in Abhaya Mudra in the Sarnath’s Thai temple

A number of countries and regions in which Buddhism is a major religion (such as Cambodia, China, Japan, Korea, Myanmar, Sri Lanka, Thailand, Tibet, and Vietnam) have temples or monastic presence there, in the style that is typical for their respective cultures, so visitors can gain insight into Buddhism from the perspectives of many different cultures. Stepping out from one of these, we headed towards the renowned ‘Dhamek Stupa’.

As we reached the main road, our eyes caught a massive board displaying a comprehensive map of Sarnath and all its notable historical and religious sites.

Map of Sarnath

Dhamek Stupa and the Archaeological Remains

The entry gate and the roadsides, all lined up with pretty stalls selling Buddhist souvenirs and light snacks like bhels and chats. A vibrant display of products and the tempting aromas of local street food filled the air.

After a brief wait at the ticket counter, we entered the Archaeological Buddhist Remains of Sarnath. The grounds were still cloaked in a soft fog, muting the colors, and the air hummed with a quiet energy—a tangible connection to a distant past. As we walked through the skeletal remains of a once-vibrant monastic city, the Dhamek Stupa peeked through the mist, standing as a silent sentinel overseeing the remnants and witnessing centuries of devotion.

The Dhamek stupa in Sarnath

The iconic Dhamek Stupa stood as the focal point, naturally attracting a diverse array of seekers. This was the approximate site where Gautam Buddha had delivered his first sermon to his initial five disciples. We observed a group of Japanese pilgrims reverently circling it; their quiet presence was a subtle reminder of Buddhism's global reach. Their serene demeanour distinguished them, in turn becoming a point of fascination for many Indian visitors, who regarded them with curious gazes.

Japanese Buddhist pilgrims at Dhamekh stupa

Same Place Different Emotions

Around the stupa, expressions of faith manifested in various ways. We saw everything from the flickering flames of numerous candles and the tying of khatas (a traditional Tibetan offering scarf) to water offered in paper cups, which amusingly led a few visitors to ask, "idar chai wai kuch mil rai kya" (Is there tea available here?).

Candles, water and Khata offerings at Dhamek stupa

The contrasts were stark. As Japanese monks quietly performed circumambulation (parikrama) around the stupa while reciting prayers, local tourists snapped their pictures. While some lit candles with quiet reverence, a simple "tu bhi candlewa jala le" (you too light a candle) between a husband and wife, encapsulated the simple desire to mimic cross-border traditions. In one corner, a honeymooning couple struck meditative poses for ‘perfect shots,’ while saffron-robed monks were found in steadfast, deep meditation, tucked away in the most unexpected corners of this sacred ground.

Japanese monks circumambulating (parikrama)

The sun, a pale disc behind the persistent fog, cast a timeless stillness over Sarnath. Even a brief meditation here could transport you to a state of nothingness, a clarity often elusive in cities. Amidst this profound calm, life's vibrant tapestry unfolded. While a honeymooning couple imitated meditative poses for perfect shots against the stupa, the saffron-robed monks remained steadfast in deep meditation, finding inner stillness even in the most unexpected corners of this sacred ground.

Dhamekh stupa: Start of Buddha’s teachings

Dhamek stupa: Where Buddha delivered his first sermon

The Revered Bodhi Tree

As we soaked ourselves in the vibrant atmosphere, we moved to the next sacred pocket of the grounds: the Bodhi Tree. This revered Peepal tree is believed to be a descendant of the original Bodhi Tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment in Bodh Gaya. Historical accounts tell us that a sapling of the revered Sri Maha Bodhi tree in Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka (itself grown from a cutting of the original Bodhi Tree), was planted here in Sarnath in 1931.

A descendant of the Mahabodhi tree

To mark this profound significance, the area is graced by a statue of Buddha delivering the Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta (Buddha's first sermon) to his first five disciples. This pivotal first sermon is also inscribed on a marble slab in Pali (English script) along with its Translation. And encircling the sacred tree were numerous prayer wheels, inviting pilgrims to circumambulate and deepen their devotion.

Buddha delivering his first sermon to his initial five disciples.

From the Bodhi Tree, we eagerly inquired about our next destination: the renowned Sarnath Archaeological Museum, hoping to see the Ashoka Pillar and the famous original sculpture depicting Buddha's first sermon. Our excitement quickly turned to disappointment. We learned this rich repository of history closed its doors early in winter, at 4:40 PM. With the museum still a ten-minute walk away, we knew we'd missed our chance. This also meant we forfeited the opportunity to visit the Deer Park.

Deer hold immense and profound symbolic significance in Buddhism. Their importance spans from Buddha delivering his First Sermon at the Deer Park in Sarnath to their appearance in the Jataka Tales. They are seen as a symbol of the Buddha's virtues. Thus, the presence of deer in this sacred location makes them a direct symbol of this foundational moment in Buddhism.

Being a little disappointed at the closed museum doors, the guard at the Bodhi Tree redirected us to the Sarnath Temple. "Yaha shaam k 6 baje puja hota hai, aapko acha lagega, aap yaha aajo, bell bajta hai, tabhi aajao, baki sab gate band hojaega" (There's a prayer at 6 PM, you'll like it; come here on the toll of the bonshō, otherwise all other gates will close), he urged. Having never attended a Buddhist prayer, this invitation was surely tempting.

A Japanese bonshō

The Much-Awaited Evening Prayer

We waited for the bonshō’s toll. It was a winter evening, and even at 6, the sun had fully set, plunging the surroundings into darkness.

Mulagandha Kuti Vihar, a Buddhist temple in Sarnath

Amidst the deepening cold, the monks began lighting the lamps, their warmth emanating despite the chilly breeze. We were soon invited to partake in the evening lamp lighting ritual, following which we were welcomed into the monastery. Inside, a pristine golden Buddha, perfectly poised in the Dharmachakra mudra (the 'Wheel of Dharma' gesture believed to have been adopted by the Buddha for the first time at Sarnath during his first sermon), coupled with its majestic background, immediately transported us into a meditative state.

Evening lamp lighting Buddhist tradition

Buddhist monks performing the evening lamp lighting ritual

As we stepped inside, we found ourselves among only five spectators, the rest were monks. The procedure was led by the Abbot, followed by several other monks spanning all ages. Particularly striking were the young novices, visibly students of the monastery. Though clad in monastic robes with shaven heads, their eyes still danced with innocence and youthful mischief, while being schooled to be profound and disciplined beings.

Prayer hall of the Buddhist temple

Among the monks were tiny children, some barely five or six, their tiny bodies draped in saffron or maroon robes with shaven heads. They looked so adorable! They'd occasionally doze off between prayers, just like any kid during lessons. Their robes were their uniforms, though one newcomer, still in ordinary clothes, stood out like a new student. Despite the urge to affectionately pat them, we knew it would be disrespectful; after all, they were monks.

For the prayer, we were handed recitation books, and we joined them in reading the Wheel of Dharma, the first sermon. The prayer lasted about an hour. The reverberation of the chants within the monastery, with the Buddha statue before us, created one of the most serene moments of our Varanasi trip. The vibrations perfectly aligned with the chants, running through our bodies. I don't know if I was reading, meditating, or had spiritually dozed off, but that vibration stayed with me long after we left the monastery.

Once the prayer ended, we were offered a yellow thread, a form of prasad, which was tied onto our right wrists. This was the blessing we carried home from Sarnath, marking the end of our trip.

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Sarnath

Sarnath

Where the Wheel of Dharma was Turned

Where the Wheel of Dharma was Turned

Where is Sarnath? Its History and Significance

The Buddha Statue and Thai Temple at Sarnath

Dhamek Stupa and the Archaeological Remains

Same Place Different Emotions

The Revered Bodhi Tree

The Much-Awaited Evening Prayer

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