Published on 21 June 2025 | 10 min read
Banarasi saree, a bridal echo, a royal legacy; it is a testament to timeless elegance and has been defining affluence through eras. Its radiant sheen reflects centuries of artistry, weaving cultural influences from India, Persia, and China into each strand.
Once favored and proliferated by the Mughals, it now belongs to all. From its mention in ancient scriptures like the Vedas for its exclusivity to its commonisation due to modern-day mass production, these sarees have traversed a remarkable journey.
The manufacturing unit Tour
Curious about the intricate saree-making process, a few searches and a series of twists and turns later, we reached the heart of Lallapura, a key manufacturing colony in Varanasi.
The moment our auto entered the area, the clattering of hundreds of looms was undeniable, a sound so distinct it formed the very identity of the place. A palpable excitement, fuelled by the periodic din, grew with each passing moment. Finally, the auto halted, and we were ushered into a storefront, a gateway to the manufacturing unit beyond.
The clatter of looms intensified as we navigated the narrow, winding lanes. Despite being a Sunday, typically a day of rest for these artisans, the air throbbed with the persistent rhythm of weaving. A small, faded blue door, worn and chipped, revealed a dimly lit workshop, a home-based factory where a dozen power looms stood. Only two looms were in motion. Yet, the mechanical thumping was overwhelming, drowning out all conversation. It was a stark prelude to the weekday's deafening roar.
In the dark, the colossal looms hammered relentlessly, each weaving its own story and destiny. It made me ponder: though they can't match the intricate handwork of artisans, eating away their bread and butter, tarnishing the legacy of Banarasi sarees. They do make these sarees accessible, offering hope and the dream of adorning one on her wedding day even to girls from humble backgrounds. So, are these looms truly the culprits?
“Madam aao, aapko batata hu kaise banti hai sariya” The guide called me, bringing me back to the present. Each inch of saree materialized from the dance of thousands of yarn threads, some plain fabric, others shimmering zari—intertwining with remarkable speed. Above, a chain of perforated design cards dictated the detailed patterns, the machine punching out designs with unwavering accuracy. As we observed, a worker briefly stepped away from his loom, yet the machine continued, showcasing its automated weaving. Another worker, diligently mending a flaw, demonstrated the precision needed. Even a single displaced yarn thread could ripple through the entire saree, requiring immediate correction.
Our guide then walked us through the saree-making process, detailing each step from yarn preparation to the process of “likhai” (drawing designs on graph paper), creation of “Naksha pattas” (punched design cards), and finally culminating in the actual weaving.
We were then led to a starkly different setting: the handloom unit. These rudimentary handlooms, A.K.A pit looms, allowed the weavers to sit with their feet in a recessed pit. The artisans, constantly coordinating their hands and feet, wove sarees upside down, millimetre by millimetre. This contrast to the automated power looms instantly justified the significant price difference.
Amidst the clatter of looms, a fascinating cultural reality unfolded: a Muslim community, where skilled weavers, mostly men wearing skullcaps, produced the iconic Banarasi sarees, a staple for Hindu weddings. The interweaving of cultures, evident in the workshop, hinted at a deeper, more complex history. While the Mughals’ contribution was undeniable, the question of their singular influence lingered. How did this intricate tradition, a confluence of diverse threads, truly evolve? What is the History of this timeless masterpiece? This prompted a deeper dive into the Banarasi saree's history. Where did it all begin? To find the answers, let’s travel back to the very origins of the Banarasi saree.
History of Banarasi Saree
The Banarasi saree's origins lie in ancient Indian cotton traditions, as referenced in sacred texts. The arrival of silk via the Silk Route during the Mughal era transformed this textile landscape. The craft then evolved into its silk brocade form through the influx of Gujarati weavers bringing Persian-influenced designs.
Its story begins in ancient India, finding its name in scriptures like the Rig Veda, Mahabharata, and Ramayana, hinting at Varanasi's (Kashi's) long-standing textile traditions, establishing the region as a centre for fine fabrics even in antiquity. These scriptures mention exquisite fabrics like 'Hiranya Vastra' (cloth of gold) and 'Putambar Vastra' (yellow cloth), which were adorned by God themselves. Though later renowned for silk, its early prominence stemmed from its strategic location and fertile land.
Silk, a prized commodity, introduced via the Silk Route during the Mughal era, revolutionized Indian textiles. Weavers from Gujarat, fleeing hardship and bringing Persian-influenced silk expertise, migrated to Varanasi between the 14th and 16th centuries, laying the foundation for the modern Banarasi saree.
Gujarat's strong Persian ties, evident in its textile designs, led migrating weavers to bring those motifs to Varanasi. During the Mughal era, especially under Akbar, this fusion of Banarasi brocades, Gujarati weaving, Persian aesthetics, and Indian tradition, fostered by imperial patronage, created the distinct Banarasi saree.
Over time, Varanasi became the centre of this burgeoning craft. The elaborate process of handloom weaving, with its meticulous attention to detail, became a hallmark of the Banarasi saree. While initially intended for royalty and the wealthy, it gradually became accessible to a wider population. While we've traced the Banarasi saree's historical journey, it’s now time to go behind the scenes. To unveil the secrets that make these sarees so special? Join me as we uncover the intricate process of creating pure Banarasi silk sarees
Making of Pure Banarasi Silk Sarees
The creation of a Banarasi saree is an elaborate art. It begins with sourcing and preparing fine raw silk through cleaning, softening, and dyeing. The cost of raw materials, including silk and zari (metallic threads, sometimes even made of real gold or silver), varies depending on quality and type. The design dictates the choice of silk type. Thicker silks are chosen to support heavier embellishments, resulting in more luxurious sarees.
The yarn is then reeled. Separating it into warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) strands (tana aur bana), which are wound onto a beam and shuttle, respectively, making it ready to be woven.
The most crucial stage is the design process, usually inspired by classic motifs. The design is then translated onto graph paper by the "Nakshaband," creating a blueprint (Naksha). This "Naksha" is then used to hand-punch cardboard stencils, the "Naksha Patta" that control the intricate weaving. The complexity of the design is reflected in the number of grids and, consequently, the number of punched cards, sometimes counting in thousands.
The Naksha Pattas are the sole codes that these jacquard looms understand, much like the binary codes are for computers. These cards, lift the warp threads to create the desired pattern. Being paddled sequentially, they ensure the weave captures the correct colours and patterns.
During weaving, the warp threads are held taut, and the weft shuttle passes through, interlacing with the warp, forming the fabric. The jacquard mechanism, guided by the stencils, lifts specific warp threads, bringing the design to life. The weaver's skill is paramount in this process, translating the design into a tangible reality.
Finally, the woven saree undergoes finishing, where loose threads are cut, and the saree is folded and packaged. While the raw materials may originate elsewhere, it is the skills and artistry of the Banarasi weavers that transform them into true masterpieces. But do all Banarasi sarees demand this level of precision and effort? And is there any difference between sarees that are mass-produced by machines and those that are handcrafted?
Difference between handloom and power loom sarees
Handloom and power loom sarees are distinguished primarily by their weaving process, impacting their characteristics and price. Handloom sarees are labour-intensive, with artisans meticulously weaving each thread, sometimes taking weeks or months (sometimes up to 4-5 months) to complete a single saree; a full workday may only yield 20-30 cms of fabric. Conversely, power loom sarees, produced on mechanized looms, are woven rapidly, enabling mass production and yielding multiple sarees per day. Though design input still requires human effort, weaving is largely automated.
Why is pure Banarasi saree so expensive?
Primarily, it's the traditional handloom process that drives the price. Unlike power loom sarees which use cheaper hybrid materials (₹1,000-₹1,200 per kilo) and automated production, pure Banarasi sarees are crafted with premium silk (ranging from ₹7,000-₹10,000 per kilo or above), adding to a significant cost factor. In addition, some authentic Banarasi sarees feature zari threads made from pure gold and silver, further enhancing their value. The painstaking handweaving process, coupled with the intricate designs, results in a superior product. Ranging from a few thousand to several lakhs of rupees.
How to identify original Banarasi sarees?
Pure handloom and power loom sarees exhibit distinct differences in fabric and finish. Handloom sarees are known for their soft, breathable texture, a result of the manual weaving process. Slight imperfections and periodic pin marks along the border, are common and considered part of the saree's unique charm. Conversely, power loom sarees boast a tightly woven, stiffer fabric with a uniform, flawless finish due to automated production.
The use of premium, often pure zari in handloom sarees yields a subtle and elegant lustre, a distinct contrast to the thicker and more conspicuous sheen of power loom zari. Another crucial distinction lies in the zari thread orientation on the saree's reverse side. In handloom sarees, the zari threads run width-wise (vertically, when worn) and feature neatly finished thread cutouts. But, in power loom sarees, they run length-wise (horizontally), often accompanied by hasty finishes. This difference in zari alignment is a key indicator of the weaving method employed.
A burn test further distinguishes them. Pure silk thread, when burned, burns like hair, leaving ashes. In contrast, hybrid materials burn like plastic, producing a distinctive smell and forming a cluster.
Where to find the weavers in Banaras?
The Banarasi saree industry is in decline, despite its handloom artistry. Many areas that were once thriving cottage industries have now faded. Power looms, offering rapid and cost-effective production, pose a substantial threat to traditional weavers. This price competition has forced many to abandon their craft in search of more sustainable livelihoods.
A few areas, such as Lallapura, Madanpura, and Sarai Mohana, still host these Banarasi saree cottage industries. “Decades ago, Madanpura was flooded with countless home saree units,” a local weaver lamented. “Now, due to low pay for the immense labour, only a handful remained.”
The Geographical Indication (GI) tag protects handloom sarees from counterfeiting, ensuring their authenticity. However, the price disparity remains a critical issue, slowly eroding the handloom’s clatter, yet it persists in weaving the legacy of Banarasi sarees.
Scams to be wary of during saree shopping at Banaras
Counterfeit products: The vibrant Banaras saree market, while a treasure trove, presents a minefield of counterfeit products. Many showrooms employ a deceptive tactic, staging a handloom weaver diligently working at the entrance, to lure customers, painting a picture of authentic, handcrafted wares within. The sales folks often spin tales of these creations adorning the shop's shelves, urging visitors to step inside.
Deceptive stories: Adding to the complexity are the ubiquitous stories from autowalas, hotel staff, and tour guides. They regale tourists with stories of rescuing past tourists from counterfeit purchases and directing them to "authentic" or "genuine" hubs. These narratives, often spiced with tales of substantial purchases (25K plus), always emphasize on purchase satisfaction and generous tips. The guides then offer to take you to the same "source," sometimes even name-dropping well-known silk brands to bolster their claims
Commission: The reality, however, is often a calculated scheme. These individuals typically receive a hefty 40% commission from the shops they recommend. This financial incentive drives their efforts to steer tourists toward specific establishments, encouraging them to maximize their purchases. The "authentic" experience becomes a carefully choreographed sales pitch, transforming a cultural exploration into a potential financial pitfall.
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